Trail Travels to Idyllwild Back Country
For Western Times Magazine
By Sherli Leonard
June 22, 2005 for August, 2005

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If you have a hankering for riding in the Yosemite high country, but can’t take time for such an extreme trip, go to the Idyllwild back country instead. For an easy haul up the San Jacinto Mountain, you can lose yourself in the vastness of the rugged, pristine mountain terrain.

I discovered this incredible country and its seemingly unlimited riding when I arranged for an excursion to Idyllwild’s White Horse Cabin, a neat, creek-side A-frame cabin complete with accommodations for four-to-six horses. I twisted the arms of three fellow trail-trippers, and the four of us landed in Idyllwild for a two-night stay, horses and all.

Once there, we hooked up with Ron and Sandy Korman, long-time residents and riders who must know every possible trail and not-so-trail in the area. This was a fortuitous connection, as we never would have found these amazing trails without their help.

I discovered the cabin while searching on SoCalEquine.com, and made the reservations through the rental agency. The horse paddocks are almost as lovely as is the cabin, but alas, two of our horses morphed into beavers and proceeded to supplement their diets with pine shreds from the fence rails. Of course, we will cover the repairs.

The Kormans introduced us to two trails. On the first afternoon, we rode up the blacktop street for about a half a mile to join up with Sandy on Hiker, a Percheron-cross black-and-white pinto and Ron on Sundance, his black-and-white Paint, then rode up a dirt trail to connect with the Ernie Maxwell Trail. The trail maps at the cabin show all of these trails, but you can also access the Ernie Maxwell Trail by trailering to the Humber Park staging area a few miles up the road from the cabin.

The Ernie Maxwell Trail hugs the western slope of Tahquitz Mountain. A narrow trail with numerous modest water crossings, it lets riders quietly glide through a cool, sweet-smelling, sun-speckled environment. Safe for quiet horses and those comfortable crossing water, the trail offered a delightful quick and easy escape from traffic hubbubs.

We stayed with this trail for about two miles until we reached its southern terminus, then followed a dirt road up hill for fifty feet or so before turning downhill on another trail, heading back toward town. The Kormans guided us around the blacktop roads and along connecting trails until we returned to the cabin. I doubt I could find my way back again, so I will recommend the Humber Trail staging area, and using the three-mile-long Ernie Maxwell Trail as a two-way excursion.

“We’re going to May Valley,” Ron announced on the next day, as we loaded our horses into our trailers and followed his rig about six miles away. We returned to Highway 243, traveled south a hundred yards or so to Saunders Meadow Road (marked noticeably with “Astrocamp” signs), and turned left. We stayed with this for maybe three miles to Cow Bell Alley, a blacktop road that went left. Ron advises riders to pull off this road anywhere that space permits once it turns into dirt, and stage from there.

Horses off-loaded and saddled up, we let them arrange themselves in a comfortable pattern, and started toward the back country. On the previous ride, we discovered the horses had some issues with each other and their position in the lineup, so we let them figure it out, and settled on the same arrangement for this ride. For these recreational rides, we can happily accommodate the horses’ foibles; it makes for a much more pleasant excursion for everyone.

We rode uphill on May Valley Truck Trail until we reached the crest where magic happened: we saw a vastness that defied any expectation – untouched, untrammeled, almost unbelievable.

We followed the road until we reached an opened gate. Sandy pointed to a trail on our left and said we would return on this trail. We continued downhill on the road until we reached a small meadow with a large metal water tank surrounded by meadow grass. While some horses grazed at this brief stop, others sniffed at and sipped the spring-fed water, paying little attention to the coy swimming around.

Ron told us we were entering May Valley, a broad expense of meadow which the truck trail skirted on the north before coming to an intersection with a large sign pointing out directions. We paused and posed for a group photo before trekking north on an equally pleasant road.

This portion stayed mostly flat, and Sandy pointed to another trail on our left, saying we would take that trail when we came back. We continued until we came to a wash-out which we were able to circumvent by carefully negotiating a short slope to the water and climbing out on the other side.

When we came to the head waters of Hurkey Creek, we crossed, rested for about 30 minutes, and soaked up the delicious sun, slight breeze, and quiet conversation, then mounted up for the return trip.

We took the single-track trail Sandy had pointed out. This was built by mountain bikers, so you won’t find it on the Forest Service maps. The trail is excellent, well-maintained, and on this day in the middle of the week, void of those stealthy bikes. The weekends might pose a problem for riders, so be prepared to shout warnings as you come to blind corners.

The trail meanders through a spectacular meadow before it makes the long climb back to the road, passing by granite out-croppings with more than 35 metate holes, according to Ron. This trail climbs gradually, but not as gradually as the road. I would recommend going downhill on this trail when you get to the gate on the road, and returning on the road: it will be an easier climb at the end of the ride.

We have only just begun to learn about the trails in the Idyllwild back country. The area we rode through for this excursion does not require an Adventure Pass for parking, nor are there any fees. It’s an incredible offering to recreational trail riders.

To reach the Idyllwild back country from San Diego area, travel north on 215 to Highway 74, turn east and go past Hemet into the mountains. The road is excellent with plenty of turnouts and passing lanes. At Mountain Center, turn left onto Highway 243 for about six miles until you reach Idyllwild. For the May Valley ride, watch for the Astrocamp signs and turn onto Saunders Meadow Road to Cow Bell Alley. From the desert areas, take Highway 243 from Banning south into Idyllwild.

If you want more specific information, call me at 909-389-7810.